We left the marina at Hilperton last Tuesday; the local heron stood to attention as we turned right and passed under the bridge – it was a brilliant start to our life back on board.
I managed the old lock that lowers you down to the Bradford on Avon stretch – it’s a bit of a workout, the terrible gear ratio means you have to wind hard for little reward – but being the first lock of the year, I put my back into it, dreamed of toned biceps and kept turning. Happy days.
We’d spent a couple of days on the central stretch of the canal here last year (we even had friends arrive with a bottle of champagne to celebrate the new life) and so decided to continue a bit further, where there’s a bit more space and a few less pedestrians.
And that’s when my friends, the bees, became the enemy - I’d llke to say I never stopped loving them, but when I accidentally disturbed hundreds of them (I’m sure I’m not exaggarating) and they attacked me, my affection waned. The irony of having, on my last post here, mentioned how much I’d learned during my lockdown walks is not lost on me. A brave husband and my little legs running in all directions meant I got away with 2 nasty stings and several sleepless nights (turns out I’m slightly allergic) and a new sense of caution when tying up the boat in long grass.
Moving on…as we had to…Avoncliff is wonderful - peaceful and isolated, yet still within walking distance to a decent pub. You go over an impressive aqueduct that straddles the river Avon and the railway that heads to and from Bath. There’s a kingfisher darting along the river and a couple of lads old enough to know better launching a little dinghy from the pub garden, trailing fishing rods behind - we honestly wondered how they would fare with the ‘gentle’ rapid further downriver. The only thing lacking here was good internet reception; we managed to join the weekly family quiz by fixing the phone to an ivy tendril on a tree that simultaneoulsy provided shelter from the continuous drizzle…where there’s a will there’s a way.
I really do love this part of the Kennet and Avon - it’s properly rural, green right now and golden when I was here last December. The reflections are beautiful, the ducklings cuter than I’d remembered and the walking ‘from the front door’ is fabulous. We lit the barbecue at Dundas and as the sun went down a hot-air balloon came over the treetops.
My favourite stretch - bridge 181 to 182 where the banded damselflies sparkle cobalt in the sunlight, the passersby on the towpath are mostly hidden behind the overgrown rushes and every so often there are glimpses of lush valleys and hills leading into Bath.
My favourite pub - the Wheelwright’s Arms at Monkton Combe. A short but pretty walk from Dundas aqueduct, just edging into the Cotswolds, we called in for a refreshing pint at the end of an excellent walk, and stayed for a few more. Even in the ‘olden days’ it would have been a good place to visit, but what impressed me was the organised set-up for ordering drinks and food, the spaces between tables, the foot-activated hand-sanitiser at the door…and the extremely friendly staff. We’ll be back.
For now, on the outskirts of Bathampton, it’s time for me to go for a wander before settiling down for tonight’s other family quiz…which we’ll be joining from the comfort of the boat this time, just like being at home!
If you’ve any questions, queries, puzzles about life on the canals, on what I do and how I do it, feel free to comment below or email me privately…and follow me via the links below on Instagram and Facebook.
Thanks, and have a great week,
Phil xx
highlights of the first few days back on board